The Laplander folding saw is a quintessential piece of kit to take on an adventure. Get the most out of it with these simple tips and tricks.
The Laplander saw has a straight, general purpose blade. Which operates best when used in close proximity to the waist /mid-torso region of the body, owing to basic body mechanics, this creates the comfort zone.
Thus kneeling to saw low laying logs will help maintain proper technique and efficiency.
It becomes less efficient if used away from the waist, e.g. when reaching over the head or below the knees in a vertical orientation.
Working within the comfort zone isn’t always possible. But its worth bearing in mind for any prolonged use.
The saw is fitted with a bi-directional crosscutting blade with seven teeth per inch.
Performing particularly well on loose, detached branches, sticks, limbs, etc. That are being held secure with the non-dominant hand aka freehand sawing.
Thus bestowing greater control over the workpiece and saw alike, as both tend to remain in their original sawing position. In contrast to a pull saw that pulls the branches towards the user which is awkward.
It is designed to cut through dead wood, greenwood, plastic and bone (the latter being prone to blunt the teeth quickly).
A small saw can be a pleasure to use, when used correctly and you don’t ask too much of it.
A general rule of thumb for efficient sawing is half the blade length indicates the ideal size of timber.
Which means timber that fits into the hands using the power or cylinder grip is most suited to this size of a saw blade.
To tackle larger timbers, place the saw vertically against larger logs/branches to gauge the diameter of the wood to the saw blade.
If sawing a raised and attached branch; begin sawing from underneath then from above to complete the cut. Remember to move out the way when it falls.
Logs that are laying on the floor are partially sawn then rolled over, continue sawing until the kerfs join.
Sawing is a chore! to save time and engery along with helping your saw blade last longer.
Saw halfway through the wood.
Prop log up against a rock /log with the kerf facing down.
Apply a firm stomp to split the wood in half.
It is possible to saw multiple cuts into a long branch/tree trunk (proving it’s not too thick) and stomp it to smithereens, supplying you with lots pieces of wood for a fire.
If you’re a bit soft and gentle, apply some violence, but do it safely by channelling your inner neanderthal.
Select a seasoned knot free section of wood. No bigger than what you can hold using the span grip.
Saw half way through in the middle then smash it on a rock or log. This will create a shockwave down the log causing one half to pop off.
Flip the log around and repeat whacking it, so that the other half pops off.
This will leave you with three pieces of wood.
You now have access to the dry insides that can be batoned with a knife to produce feather sticks, kindling etc.
WARNING: RISK OF INJURY!
The nut and bolt are often over-torqued (manufacturers safety feature).
To open and close the saw one-handed; it may be necessary to back off the tension on the through-bolt just enough so the blade moves freely.
Press the button and flick your wrist to open and close the saw with one hand.
Ensure you’re pinching the handle to prevent cutting yourself.
Listen for a click of the lock.
Note: can't be used with the "Finger Weave" lanyard grip.
Keep the saw on your person, so it's there when you need it. Wear a belt sheath (or keep it in your jacket's kangaroo pouch) as it allows for greater freedom of movement when carrying the saw around as you locate resources.
When it comes using the saw to perform tasks, I prefer to stash it in a front trouser pocket for super quick access. Combining this with the flick saw technique, it means I can quickly deploy the saw to dismember limbs, enabling me to work efficiently.
Rather than continually reaching for the saw from a floppy sheath or picking it up from the floor between cuts which is tedious and slows the workflow.
Returning it to the sheath when the task in hand is complete and I'm ready to move on.
Sawing hard and fast with any frameless saw is not advised. It’s not a race.
Nevertheless Sandvik steel is forgiving and flexible enough to take severe amounts of abuse, avoid buckling the blade out of shape regardless if it can be bent back into place, it will have a slight kink.
A distorted blade will hinder your ability to open and close the saw effectively when using the “flick saw technique”.
The mark of an idiot in the woods is a snapped or bent saw blade.
The lanyard allows for a more secure grip on the handle. Which comes in handy if conditions are wet, your hands are slippy or if wearing gloves.
If the lanyard loop is too large undo the overhand knot, and retie it further along the cord.
Avoid cutting it shorter, as you may need it long in winter when wearing gloves.
Coming up are two lanyard techniques.
The Finger Weave; prevents you dropping the saw.
The Thumb Twist; a fast and simple way to engage the lanyard.
The Finger Weave prevents you dropping the saw. Useful around water, snow, or on terrain with boulders riddled with nook and crannies.
The thumb twist grip is the quickest lanyard grip to engage.
To tighten the lanyard’s grip move your hand towards the blade.
To loosen, pull back towards the lanyard hole.
